So, now I just needed to figure out how to get that look across the whole front. My experiments with 3D printed front-faces has this, and so did my individual digit tests with paper. This was when I realized that what I really wanted was a smooth, featureless front. Even with some of the segments lit in a color, the unlit white segments were going to be too visually distracting to be an effective clock. The contrast of the white paper with the wood is great, but the segments stand too much. This wasn't going to give me the look I was hoping for. I should have been extremely pleased with this result, but I wasn't. Not super pretty, but not terrible! Using a plastic collar stay to smooth down the glue and force it into the corners was fairly effective. To make sure that I was getting the segment openings lined up well, I traced the digit shroud outlines onto the faceplate interior before covering them in paper. Because I didn't really plan ahead with through-holes for all of these mountings, it was back to the hot glue. Now it was time to get these affixed to the inside front face of the clock. When dry, I used an X-Acto knife to cut them free along their outlines. The thin white paper acts as a diffuser for the light for each segment.Īll of my experiments had been considering digits in isolation, so I went ahead and glued (with Elmers glue stick) paper to the front of all my digit pieces. Since abandoning my initial plans for a 3D printed enclosure, I've been moving forward with a plan for wood + paper. The digit segment shrouds are made of three 3mm layers of wood, stacked and glued together. Next, I turned my attention to the digits. If you look around the small board there, you can see a pencil outline that represents the footprint of that board before I took the Dremel to it. I did that after realizing that interior space was very tight, and things were not going to fit unless I accounted for insets on both the front and the back. A bit of hot glue keeps that attached, since I didn't plan for a better method. The other holds the CdS photoresistor, and is mounted on the inside of the top of the box, with the photocell exposed through a hole. One has the rotary encoder which is mounted on the back of the box, next to the main board. It's been about a month since I started working on this project, and the time has come to put it together!Īside from the main protoboard containing the Adafruit Pro Trinket (5v) and the Real-Time Clock (RTC) module, there are a couple other small boards that support the other functions.
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